Do you want to learn how to enclose a bodice with a waist elastic? I’ll show you how!
I really love having the inside of a garment as nice as the outside by enclosing the bodice. Enclosing a bodice has many benefits like: it looks really nice, it’s more durable, and it is more comfortable for the wearer. With a simple bodice, the skirt is sewn to the main fabric and then the lining fold over and top stitched down or hand sewn. When there is elastic at the waist, the main fabric and lining are sewn together. Consequently, the traditional method of enclosing a bodice cannot be used. When I first ran into this problem, it really stumped me. So, I figured out how to change the order of construction and still get a beautiful, enclosed waist seam.
I’m going to be using Little Lizard King Bellevue for this tutorial. The Bellevue has the added challenge of straps that are sewn to both the main and lining layer, so I’ll show how I change that too. This technique can be used on most bodices with elastic at the waist seem.
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Adjusting the Straps for an Enclosed Bodice
Follow the instructions until you are ready to attach the straps to the bodice. In the original instructions for the Bellevue, the straps are top stitched to both the main and lining. For enclosing, we need to alter these instructions a bit.
I start by using washable tape to keep the straps in place. My favorite kind is Dritz Wash Away Wonder Tape. I put it on both sides of the strap where it connects to the bodice.
The first 1 1/2 inches need to be sewn to just the main bodice fabric and not the lining. Separate the lining from the main fabric and topstitch the strap down along both edges the first 1 1/2 inches from the raw edge. Then put the lining and main together and topstitch the rest of the strap to both layers.
This is what it should look like on the inside with the first 1 1/2 inch separate. From the front, the top stitching is continuous around the whole strap.
Finish the bodice construction per the instructions until you reach the point of sewing the casing to insert the elastic. Don’t sew the casing yet. Put the bodice aside and finish the construction of the skirt or romper.
I used Baby Bellevue but wanted it to be a dress, so I used the Baby Siena double skirt. The process is the same if you are attaching a single layer skirt or a romper.
Enclose a Bodice with Waist Seam
Attached the skirt like any other enclosed waist seam. Separate the main and the lining and sew the skirt to the main bodice fabric.
Now, the lining needs to be turned under 1/2 inch (or seam allowance of pattern) and sewn to the skirt. You can use the wash away wonder tape again and top stitch it down or you can hand stitch it. Starting at one side seam sew the lining to the skirt just where the elastic is inserted, stopping at the next side seam.
To hand sew a slip stitch, start with a small stitch right below waist seam. Slip your needle through the folded edge of the lining, about 1/4 inch. Then, do another small stitch of the skirt fabric. Continue this stitch until you reach the side seam. To finish, tie a knot by making a small stitch on the fold and send your needle through the loop formed before you pull it tight. I like to hide the end of my thread in the enclosed area by sending my needle through and coming up 1/2 inch away and then trim the thread.
You have made a casing for the elastic. Thread the elastic through and secure at side seams per the instructions. Finally, continue securing the lining to the waist seam in the same manner for the remainder of the bodice. You now know how to enclose a bodice with waist elastic!
I paired my Bellevue with a Baby Bristol top and lengthened Siena simple skirt for a beautiful Thanksgiving outfit.
